Log
This is a nautical diary of the days when I am on the boat and doing boat things. It starts in mid April a month before setting out on the 2024 Ireland and France trip. For those that are interested and my amusement in my dotage. This a diary with the latest at the top so best understood by scrolling down a few pages and reading upwards. If that makes any sense. When you spot typos, spelling mistakes and the rest, let me know! I hate finding them later.
OK
This happened last year, the page has too many images and is very slow to upload.
I just lost two days input as the site gave up before I had a chance to save it.
Tomorrow I will start a new page 2024 (B)log part 2. Fingers crossed it works better.
3rd August 2024: 47 30.604N 2 51.172W: Golfe du Morbihan, France.
Day Log: 9.4 nm. Total Log: 1,225.8nm.
Today I ventured into the heart of the Gulfe of Morbihan. I waited until the tide turned and started to fill up the estuary as going against the current here can be a challenge. The Gulfe is 20 km long and 15km wide covering an area of 115 square km, within the water there is said to be as many islands as there are days in the year, but in reality according to the internet there are about forty. All the islands are privately owned apart from the two largest. To put that into perspective Chichester Harbour is 74 sq km.
The weather today was windless and cloudy but the Golfe doesn’t disappoint. All the islands are similar with sandy rocky shores protecting the odd beach and private slipway. The island centre is fringed with trees and you can glimpse clearings where houses stand surrounded by lawn.
After motoring for 9.4 nm I stopped at Kerat where we moored on a buoy. The mystical island magic was broken when a man took 48 euro from me for the privilege. I thought they were free, at least that’s what it says on the internet. Never mind, it’s only money. I stopped here because there is a butcher, baker and food store in Arradon a 1.5km walk away. So, I went shopping and then sat on the back of the boat drinking a can of beer or two. My first since the girls left.
where’s Galadriel?
2nd August 2024: 47 30.604N 2 51.172W: Golfe du Morbihan, France.
Day Log: 0.0 nm. Total Log: 1,216.4nm.
Another day at work. I stopped at 1500hrs so that I could try to finish the hull clean. For some reason I became quite chilled after about three quarters of an hour, only half way through the job. I decided that there was always tomorrow, so I gave up. A hot shower and half an hour of wrapped up in a duvet got me back to normal temperature.
Its is really quite lovely in the Gulfe of Morbihan, there is something spiritual here that make everything feel very comforting and magical. A feeling of belonging and home quite unlike anywhere else I have visited. I was interested to find that it was a favourite gathering place for neolithic tribes. The surrounding area and islands are littered with standing stones, burial cairns and menhirs. I thought I saw Obelix yesterday in the boulangerie. Perhaps it is the spirt of these people that somehow still hold the attraction or just the magical setting that has captivate so many generations of humans.
Whatever the reason there is a beautiful gentle earthly power to the place. I have only venture just inside the estuary, tomorrow I will travel further into its spiritual heart. I feel slightly Hobbity.
“It's a dangerous business, Tomo, going out your door. You step onto the boat, and if you don't keep your feet, there's no knowing where you might be swept off to.”
1st August 2024: 47 30.604N 2 51.172W: Golfe du Morbihan, France.
Day Log: 0.0 nm. Total Log: 1,216.4nm.
Big day at work today. What a lovely part of the world to have an office.
31st July 2024: 47 30.604N 2 51.172W: Golfe du Morbihan, France.
Day Log: 0.0 nm. Total Log: 1,216.4nm.
Jumped out of bed slowly this morning, the run yesterday making me feel quite weary.
The morning was taken up with work.
In the afternoon I took the tender to Locmariaquer, one of the small villages that surround the Golfe, to visit a supermarket. Only accessible at medium to high tide the village is very picturesque with shuttered stone buildings and meandering streets and market squares. However taking a photograph without traffic signposts, modern streetlamps and cars proved impossible. If I were on the village council, I would make sure that the iconic views of my village were free from all this modern clutter. There is a business opportunity in here somewhere.
Predictably I arrived at the supermarket at two o’clock but it was closed for lunch until three. It’s like the UK twenty years ago, probably not a bad thing but I keep forgetting. I waited out of the heat in the church, which was surprisingly full, presumably people waiting for the shops to open. At three there was a que of Brits at the supermarket door.
Back on the boat I dived the hull again. It is getting there. Another dive should do it……..
Spot the modern clutter.
Nice place to wait for the shops to open
30th July 2024: 47 30.604N 2 51.172W: Golfe du Morbihan, France.
Day Log: 5.4 nm. Total Log: 1,216.4nm.
Still a little knackered from the sail up north on Sunday. It is also very hot and this doesn’t help. I moved the boat into the Golfe du Morbihan in the morning taking advantage of the rising tide as the currents around the mouth of the estuary are quite fierce. The area of water is huge with many islands scattered about. The islands have a resemblance to Brownsea Island in Poole Harbour with a steep rocky shore topped by trees that look something like Scots Pines.
I hadn’t gone far when I spotted some boats at anchor in the shelter of a long thin island, appropriately called Ile Longue. I found a nice spot threw out the anchor in 5M of water and got on with some work.
At four o’clock I foolishly took the tender over to the mainland and went for a run. The temperature was still very hot and after about 4km my cardio was way too high. I had to stop and cool down but there was little shelter from the sun and I was feeling quite wobbly. In the end I cracked on and as my head was not working very well in the heat, I took a wrong turn and ended on the other side of the peninsular that I was running over. By now I was having to stop quite often to keep my heart rate at a sensible level. I somehow ran past where I left the boat and only realised when I was two kilometres beyond. I was very glad to get back to EIVIVA that last 2K back to the tender was all I could do. I drank a lot of water and floated off the back of the boat for ten minutes.
I will think twice about running in that sort of temperature again. Images of a pint of ice cold larger with condensation running down the side of the glass kept floating through my mind. I have now put water in the fridge.
The short end of Ile Longue
EIVIVA off Ile Longue and entrance of Golfe du Morbihan
29th July 2024: 47 30.604N 2 51.172W: Anse De Cornault, France.
Day Log: 0.0 nm. Total Log: 1,211.0nm.
I had a work meeting at 1000hrs today, by the time it was over it was lunch time.
All around the boat the local sailing school was teaching kids how to sail Hobie Cats in almost no wind. There is not a cloud in the sky and the sea is like a millpond. The nearby beach is full of people, it looks like there is a reasonable amount of room between the bodies, except near the car park where people can’t be arsed to walk a few hundred metres.
The visibility in the water is excellent, I could see the bottom, so on with the wet suit and scrub, scrub, scrub. Even though I couldn’t see what I was doing during the last few dives I hadn’t missed much. The starboard side was already growing a new film of slime, but it was easy to remove. I will dive every day for the next few days and should have it all done in three more sessions. I noticed that the prop anode was almost gone but it will hopefully last the season.
You can see from the drone shot that I am close to the entrance of the Golfe du Morbihan, a large inland harbour similar to Chichester. The entrance is just off to the left of the photo. It is a place I have always wanted to explore so I will spend the rest of the week cruising the waterways and looking around.
Golfe du Morbihan is the inland harbour in the distance. EIVIVA is the cutter.
28th July 2024: 47 30.604N 2 51.172W: Anse De Cornault, France.
Day Log: 106.3 nm. Total Log: 1,211.0nm.
I was up at 03:45hrs to be greeted by a fresh NE wind. We were on the way with a cup of tea in hand by 04:15hrs. It was still dark so going under the road bridge was even more intimidating that the last time. It really does look like the top of the mast will hit. I glanced at the speedo and saw that we were doing 11kts! I didn’t recall the tide was going to be that strong. At that speed the mast would definitely come down. Later I discovered that my antique Raymarine with it’s built in redundancy had changed the speed to kilometres an hour.
The sun rose in a cloudless sky and the wind set in at 15kts with a slight swell. EIVIVA with a mostly clean bottom skipped along nicely on a beam reach. Perfect. This type of sailing is what they show when selling sailing holidays and promoting a new boat launch. It only happens once a year, if you are lucky, and today it lasted all the way.
I changed my destination from Belle Ile to Port Navalo on the mainland, although the wind is from the NW there is a swell coming in from the Bay of Biscay that could make for an uncomfortable night. The anchorages are also mostly rocky bottom and sea grass in Belle Ile, neither have good holding and the worry of dragging would keep me awake.
With 18nm to go the wind finally dropped as the sun dipped towards the horizon. For the last hour and a half I switched on the engine and motored over a flat sea towards Port Navalo. In the end I spotted some masts off the beach at Anse De Cornault so I changed course and dropped the anchor in 3m of water.
The sun was setting and the anchorage still.
A lovely relaxing day on the water. 106.2NM in total.
The other two boats are Brits so I guess they know what they are doing?
Sun rise leaving La Rochelle
Another cup of tea and a non functioning speedo. I pushed buttons to change it from KPH to NM and it stopped working altogether. Sorted it later in daylight with instruction manual.
Just beat the sun, with a little motor assist for the last hour and a half.
27th July 2024: 46 43.517N 2 20.297W: Ile De Re, France.
Day Log: 0.0 nm. Total Log: 1,104.7nm.
I spent the an hour and a half cleaning the port side of the keel in middle to low visibility of about one meter. The water temperature is reasonable and I wear a wet suit, even so it took a hot shower and an hour wrapped up in my duvet to stop shivering. I now have the starboard side and the keel on the port side done.
In the afternoon I got on with revising a project we are presenting on Monday.
At seven o’clock in the evening I saw that the visibility was good so I jumped back in to continue the port side, only to discover that the low sunlight shining through the water illuminated the floating sand particles reducing visibility to a couple of inches. I gave up before I got too cold.
Tomorrow I am heading north to Belle Ile 102NM away. The wind is predicted NE at 14ish knots. I will start at 0400hrs so that I have a reasonable chance of anchoring before dark.
The beach has many pebbles with holes. They should build churches with them.
26th July 2024: 46 43.517N 2 20.297W: Ile De Re, France.
Day Log: 9.0 nm. Total Log: 1,104.7nm.
Up early to a predicted windless day. We (EIVIVA and I again) motored across the bay to get fuel from La Rochelle marina. I managed a smooth landing on the fuel pontoon without assistance, filled the tank and topped up the petrol for the outboard.
We were back at the anchorage by 1000hrs. I dipped a long boat hook in the water and I could see the end of it a meter below the surface. Visibility! On with the wet suit and an hour later the starboard side of the hull was clean, as far as I could tell with one metre visibility. I then attacked the water line on the port side until the current picked up the sand to a point that I could not see anything. I gave up the struggle.
It is quite a workout holding onto a suction cup whilst scrubbing the hull of a bobbing boat that is being swung around the anchor, all the time time being pulled back along the hull by the current. To help matters, when the visibility reduces it makes you feel slightly nauseous as there is no visual reference, apart from the sand stream, as you are swirled around.
Out of the water, warm shower and back to work again for the rest of the day. At 17:00hrs I took the tender to shore and found a supermarket where I stocked up with food for the next few days.
A cheap but excellent bottle of Bordeaux Superior was the perfect way of finishing a very productive Friday.
Life is a beach, this one is a long way off. EIVIVA in the middle distance. Tender on shore.
25th July 2024: 46 43.517N 2 20.297W: Ile De Re, France.
Day Log: 0.0 nm. Total Log: 1,095.7nm.
Big working day today.
The anchorage was mild with little wind from the north and good protection. At lunch time I decided to continue to clean the starboard side of the hull. When I got into the water the visibility was a few inches and there was a strong current. There were times that I could not tell which way I was facing, the visual world only consisted of water born sand streaming past my goggles. I gave it a good go for about 40 minutes then gave up.
Back on board for more work. Then to bed and out cold, if it was rocking and rolling, I never felt a thing.
24th July 2024: 46 43.517N 2 20.297W: Ile De Re, France.
Day Log: 4.5nm. Total Log: 1,095.7nm.
Once again, I was up and working early. Today the girls go back home, their flight is early evening, so they had a relaxing morning sorting things out and going to the beach. They left for Rochelle airport at about 14:30hrs. Great having the three of them onboard.
I spent the afternoon tidying up EIVIVA, filled up the watertank and set off to spend the night at anchor off the south beach Ile De Re. On the way I thought I would fill up the fuel tank, but the fenders were on the wrong side when I got to the fuel pontoon and there were to many boats to safely go on auto helm whilst I changed them over. There is no wind on Friday I might go into the marina early and get some.
The anchorage is a little lively but saves me 50 euro a night and I am back into frugal sailing mode now that I am Tommy no mates again
The anchorage is a long way off shore due to the shallow angle of the beach. I think my depth is OK we shall see at 0200hrs. Sandy bottom so no great drama if have it wrong. Up with the catamarans. That’s the bridge we went under that links the mainland to the island. Ile De Re on the left.
19th - 23rd July - Margaux and Jules wedding
As EIVIVA is in a marina for the next week whilst we go to the wedding and this is a sailing Blog I have pulled the days together.
19th July
We all took the tender back to the Vieux Port to go to have breakfast in a gluten free café that Alice had discovered when she visited La Rochelle last year. Very excellent food. Then Captain Maz and me went back to EIVIVA in the tender and walked from there to pick up the car. We then picked up the girls from another GF bakery and went back to the boat to load up the car and set of off for Bergerac 3.5 hours drive to the south.
It was a long drive, I like to keep off the motorways but Google maps has an annoying habit of redirecting the route to the quickest. We ended up on the Autoroute. The French drive in the fast lane with no stopping distance at all! I stayed at 65mph in the slow lane, Brits on holiday.
We arrived at Les Rocailles Hotel at 1800hrs or there abouts. We had changed our rooms for a 2 bedroom cottage that was just perfect. Alice needed to go for a running session and had convinced me that I should go along with her. It was tough for me, but Alice seemed unaffected by the exertions. The Cottage is self-catering so the girls cooked tuna with roasted Mediterranean vegetables and salad. We sat on the terrace and chilled out, it had been a long day.
20th July
Big wedding day for Margaux and Jules today. The church service was not until 1600hrs so there was plenty of time to get ready. Early in the morning I took the car to find bread and a few other things we needed then we had a lazy day saving ourselves for the big event.
Fantastic wedding! Excellent service in the church where the priest swapped from French to English so that we could all keep up. Then a short car drive to a grand French manor house where there were cocktails and speeches and dinner and dancing until I dragged the girls back to the cottage at past two in the morning.
21st July
Slightly groggy this morning, more party lag than hangover for me as I was driving last night. Today is brunch at eleven o’clock back at the wedding venue. We said out goodbyes to everyone and all agreed to do another big family meet up next year. What a great event! A very special wedding altogether.
The a four hour drive back to the boat in La Rochelle was super difficult as I was very tired. We kept off the autoroute on small twisty roads through the wonderful French countryside but in the end even this could not keep me awake without stops for a walk around.
Everyone was hungry but in rural France everywhere is closed on a Sunday. Eventually we found a Mac Donald’s.
Slept well when we finally made it to the boat.
22nd July
I woke up early to take the car back to Europcar only to discover that it had been towed away as it was parked, along with a bunch of other cars, in an area that was parking for the Monday market. I had intended to run back from Europcar so instead I ran to the place that they had taken the car, paid my 121 euro fine, drove the car to the drop off then ran back to the boat. It turned out to be a nice 7km jog.
I was working by 0900hrs.
In the afternoon the Girls went into La Rochelle to look around. Early evening I took the tender over to meet them for drinks and then dinner.
23rd July
Up early and got on with work. Halfway through the day the shore power was unplugged and as the battery in my computer is not working I lost my mornings work. I then spent the rest of the day getting back to square one, plus a bit.
Carol took the boat off the pontoon and out to a beach off the south end of Ile De Re, this was primarily to empty the poo tank (not off the beach). Then back to the pontoon for the evening and dinner prepared by Lucy. Chilled out day.
18th July 2024: 46 43.517N 2 20.297W: La Rochelle, France.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 1,090.2nm.
I spent the morning under the boat again, when the battery of the hookah system ran out I think I had cleaned about 70% of the starboard side. Slow work. I am going to use another brush when I get back to it after the wedding to see whether it makes it easier. The car dent puller I use to hold myself on the hull is excellent, easy to use with one hand and sticks first time with enough suction that it is impossible to pull off unless triggered. Captain Maz continued to work and get on with things on the boat.
First Mates Lucy and Alice arrived in the evening. As it was Easy Jet their flight was delayed by an hour. The penalty we all pay for cheap flights.
We all met up at the Veiux Port and had a few drinks then took the tender back to the boat for chicken Curry I prepared before hand.
Great to have everyone on board.
I’m looking good in this one.
17th July 2024: 46 43.517N 2 20.297W: La Rochelle, France.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 1,090.2nm.
The anchorage rolled around when the tide changed and we went broadside onto the slight swell, but after last night we slept well.
I hate taking EIVIVA into marinas, she is easy going forwards but there is no way of backing out of a tight space, it requires a U turn, unfortunately the Max Prop has reduced prop walk so turning on a sixpence is challenging. No wind today and the harbour man knew his boats, he gave us a nice easy pontoon with stacks of space aft for Island Packet unpredictability when we leave. My adrenaline was not used.
Carol worked the morning then spent the rest of the day washing bedding and cushions. I dived the hull and was horrified by the amount of weed growth that had accumulated. I thought that the hull clean in Kinsale was quick, he obviously thought that a covering of growth was acceptable. I used up one battery of the dive system on the starboard side, about 1.5 hours of scrubbing and I am only 25% through the job. Hard work. I went to see whether the boat could be lifted and jetwashed but they wanted 550 euros for 2 hours in the slings and I had to hire a jet washer for another 100 euros. Silly money, I will continue scrubbing.
Captain Maz and I took the tender into the Vieux Port for dinner. The historic part of La Rochelle is very interesting with a nice mix of historic buildings surrounding the old harbour. The entrance to the harbour is guarded by two forts between which a giant chain was lifted to stop unwelcome visitors.
16th July 2024: 46 43.517N 2 20.297W: La Rochelle, France.
Day Log: 60.3nm. Total Log: 1,090.2nm.
A horrible night at anchor, the worst yet. On Navily someone wrote that if the wind blew with any strength from any direction the waves carried around the island and it was a nasty place to stay the night. Yesterday was flat calm so I thought he was probably exaggerating. He wasn’t. We both slept very little, it was like trying to sleep in a tumble dryer mounted on a roller coaster.
At 0730 my alarm went off and we staggered out of our bunks and set off south for La Rochelle, 60NM away. The trip was in three parts from a sailing point of view. The first third we sailed in 8kts of wind on the beam never exceeding 5.5kts SOG. The second third the wind dropped away and we motor sailed for a few hours. Over the last three hours I put up the spinnaker as the wind picked up a bit to 10kts from 140 degrees and we ghosted past Ile de Re at 5.5kts and on to La Rochelle.
The route we took went under the road bridge that connects Ile de Re to the mainland. I knew the bridge had 30m clearance at HAT and our mast is 18.9m from the waterline but looking up from the deck it appeared to be mighty tight. We almost went under with the spinnaker up but just past the bridge we had to make a right turn that would have meant taking it down in a cramped location, so we took it down before. Shame as that would have been amusing.
To save some cash we anchored off the marina that we are leaving the boat in when we go to the wedding in Bergerac over the weekend. It was 2100hrs when we arrived, a slow average speed under 5kts. But a sunny gentle day on the water was what the doctor ordered after last night’s visit to the fun fair.
15th July 2024: 46 43.517N 2 20.297W: Ile D’Yeu, France.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 1,029.9nm.
Slightly jaded from last night watching the football. It was the glass of red wine that I had before four pints of reassuringly strong European lager that did it. Moderation and watching England paly football is slightly beyond me, The wind picked up from the west and started to gust around 30kts over our exposed anchorage off the harbour wall of Port Joinville. EIVIVA is as good as any 45ft monohull in a swell but we were rocking and rolling today, big time.
I didn’t want to leave the boat with the wind pulling on the anchor so I took Carol ashore to do shopping and returned to baby sit. Carol tripped over whilst talking to Alice on her phone and made a nasty mess of her arm and leg, The chaps at the marina patched her up and we did a better job back on the boat. One thing at a time, multitasking is dangerous.
We are now back on the boat and although the wind has abated, we are still rolling around like, like, a rolling around thing. I am super impressed with the resilience of Captain Maz in these conditions. Not sure that I would be as bullet proof after a few days at sea.
A good nights sleep is required as tomorrow we sail the last 60 nm to La Rochelle. Wind is predicted from WNW 10-15kts so a gentle sail if all goes well.
View from our anchorage just now with Port Joinvile Marina and the breakwater.
14th July 2024: 46 43.517N 2 20.297W: Ile D’Yeu, France.
Day Log: 5.0nm. Total Log: 1,029.9nm.
I had some work to do so I was up early and into it. Whilst I worked Captain Maz navigated us around to the East side of the island where we anchored off the main town of the island, Port Joinville.
In the afternoon we took the tender into the port and had a wander around, it being Sunday most of the shops were closed, we will revisit tomorrow. Port Joinville is a nice two storey town with small winding streets behind the waterfront, the buildings are similar in style to the island houses we saw yesterday, white adobe, aqua painted wooden shutters and pan tile roofs. They have no gutters here, the lower U-shaped pantile sticks out from the eves and the water runs off onto the ground. In the sunshine this creates a pleasing castellated shadow on the façade.
Back to the boat for dinner then off into town again to watch England get beaten by Spain in the Euros. Apart from the end result I think we did a good job of the tournament. There were a surprising number of people supporting England.
On the way back in the dark to find the boat I took some long exposure shots that came out blurry but quite well. The green light is the oil pressure OK light of the outboard.
Busy for a Sunday.
13th July 2024: 46 41.547N 2 18.716W: Ile D’Yeu, France.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 1,024.9nm.
Today we went for a walk along the coastal path that runs around the southwest side of the island. They say it is the most beautiful of the coastal islands and I can well believe it. The path wound past numerous rocky bays that are surrounded by wild flower banks, all accompanied by the constant cry of the gulls and the slap of the azure sea on the rocks. Have a look at the pictures as my ability with words cannot do it justice.
After about 5km we arrived at a small fishing village called La Meule where there was a terraced restaurant where we had a very pleasant seafood lunch. Then on around the coastal path to Le Vieux Chateau, a castle that apparently inspired Herge’s castle in The Black Island adventure of Tintin.
Then on into the centre of the island to find a shop. They were all closed until four o’clock so we sat in a local bar and had a beer for an hour with a group of local workers that were intent of losing money on Euro Millions. They were having a good time of it though. Then back to the boat, a leisurely and very enjoyable 12km circuit.
The island is peppered with small white adobe single storey cottages with pan tiled rooves and aqua coloured shutters. We looked up how much they sell for as it is all very lovely. Millionaires holiday home prices. Forty years ago was the time to buy on the Ile D’Yeu. I would imagine that a high proportion of the coastal houses are now shuttered up and empty over the winter months.
Captain Maz on the bridge of Le Vieux Chateau.
12th July 2024: 46 41.547N 2 18.716W: Ile D’Yeu, France.
Day Log: 52.4nm. Total Log: 1,024.9nm.
Peaceful anchorage until about four o’clock when the tide changed and the wind went around to the NW exposing us to the swell. Then we rolled around until 08:00hrs, at which point we had had enough and set off south again towards…..the south. Once again we will decide where we spend the night as we go depending on boat speed and wind direction.
The spinnaker was up within half an our of leaving and stayed up for the next 50nm. The wind never reached my, 18kts take it down now, strength although for the last 60% of the trip it was getting close and we were scooting along between 7.5 and 8.5 kts for most of the passage. The Bay of Biscay awarded us with a 3m following sea that wasn’t the best motion when you have only been on a boat for a few days. Captain Maz went green and retired below.
A tug boat came at us during the passage and (once I had switched on my VHF) said that we were entering a restricted zone and would I mind changing course. The spinnaker was flying at 120 to the wind so this was not possible without taking it down. In the end he let me carry on as we were skirting the edge of his zone, that was not on the charts yet, and the wind farm he was protecting had not started construction. He complimented us on the spinnaker before signing off.
Carol came on deck to help drop the kite as we approached Ile D’Yeu. Much easier with two people.
The anchorage is off the beach on the south side of the island at Anse des Vieilles. Very picturesque, there are a few other boats here at anchor but, unlike the deserted beaches so far on this trip, the beach is wriggling with semi naked humans. A place to avoid from my point of view.
1,000nm since leaving Chichester.
11th July 2024: 47 22.897N 2 57.712W: , Houat, France.
Day Log: 58.3.2nm. Total Log: 952.5nm.
My alarm went off at 07:30hrs and I grabbed a quick shower using the hot water created whilst running under engine yesterday. Then coffee and away south by 08:10hrs. The wind was light on the beam, I was happy to cruise along at 5.5kts over flat seas. Perfect easy sailing except for the grey skies that threatened rain. I put up the bimini as the first drops splattered on the deck.
Captain Maz crawled out of bed at 12:00hrs, having had a sleepless night, only falling asleep at five o’clock. She spent the rest of the day until about 17:00hrs working with people in Horsham via starlink.
Dinner at 18:00hrs, spag bog cooked on the go. It is now 19:00hrs and we are blasting along at 8-9kts in 15-20kts of apparent wind on the beam. The autohelm is groaning so I might have to put in a reef if it carries on this way. I had to switch off the wind generator as it is making a loud whining noise. Batteries are at 75% as there has been no sun and Carol has been on Starlink all day. Hopefully we will get some sun tomorrow. Hopefully I can sort out the wind gen.
I had no idea where we were going to end up when I started out, but I now think it is going to be the island of Houat 80 odd nautical miles from the start. There are some anchorages off the beaches that are protected from a northerly wind. I have just put a reef in the Yankee as the wind has picked up to 25kts. Using the computer is difficult as the mouse slides off the table every time I let go of it to type. You can tell I am doing some of this blog on the move, live reporting.
Captain Maz has hit the sack. I think we will be at anchor by 22:00hrs just as the sun goes down. We finally anchored in 10m of water, after a few attempts, off the beach at Treach Salus, island of Houat.
I dropped the anchor between two French boats a good 30m clear of both. The boat to my left then decided to move on. I whipped up my anchor to go where he had been so that I had a little more room. I then noticed that he had moved to give himself more room. Now we were back to square one. If he has been polite, I would have moved again but he just shouted angrily at me in French. I just smiled, shrugged my shoulders and went to make a cup of tea. Merde happens.
10th July 2024: 48 0.488N 4 33.140W: , Sainte Evette, France.
Day Log: 28.2nm. Total Log: 894.2nm.
I am writing this whilst the Dutch play England in the Euros. Thanks to Starlink. Second half now, what could possibly go wrong.
Captain Maz was working in the morning whilst I pottered around doing boat stuff. In the afternoon we went into Camaret to have a look around, a very nice town with a medieval street pattern lined with some old buildings behind the quay side buildings. Pizza for lunch, not as good as Italy.
At 16:00hrs we motored of in very little wind towa
Crikey England just scored in the last minute!
What was I saying? towards the Raz de Sein and on to Sainte Evette. there was never more than 5kts of wind so we ran under engine along with all the other boats coming the other way. We arrived at the Raz at slack tide and apart from some strong currents swirling around it was benign.
Arrived in Sainte Evette and grabbed a buoy with very little swinging room. In time to watch England beat Holland. I think we will hit the boat besides us if the wing comes from the south. It is predicted northerly 4kts so we should be OK. We were here first anyway. If that make a difference.
Designed by Vauban, top military architect for Louis XIV. Kind of country cottage fort, Disney style.
Difficult to take a bad photograph in the boat graveyard.
The French do great lighthouses, La Vielle.
9th July 2024: 48 16.722N 4 35.036W: Camaret, France.
Day Log: 11.3nm. Total Log: 865.9nm.
Lovely anchorage. Captain Maz slept in as she was knackered after little sleep on the ferry last night. We then had a nice sail out of Brest through the fort lined entrance to Camaret. On the way out of Brest a Dutch schooner passed close to us and the men on deck were waving in an animated fashion pointing forwards. I knew there were rocks in the centre of the harbour entrance and we were clear of them. I then realised that I had left the anchor in its mud removal position with the blade just below the waterline. On a modern boat with a straight up and down bow this would have made quite a mess of the bow. As the design of EIVIVA is old school the configuration of the bowsprit and bow angle has been perfected to allow for idiots like me. No damage done. Thank you Dutch Schooner.
We anchored of Camaret in 12m of water at high tide along with ten or so other boats. Later we launched the tender and went in to town to go to the supermarket and have dinner. Great to have company.
We were going to set out to hit slack water at the Raz de Sein tomorrow morning at 0400hrs. The wind would be blowing 25kts from the SW so it would be on the nose and when we arrived the potential for a wind over tide situation would be quite real. In the end we decided to get to the Raz at 1930hrs when the wind has dropped and veered to the west.
This means that there is more time to explore Camaret tomorrow morning.
Junk or art?
Is it me or is the land rolling around?
8th July 2024: 48 18.992N 4 32.436W: Brest, France.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 865.9nm.
Captain Maz arrived today. The wind is blowing 35kts under stormy grey skies and torrential rain.
I woke up at 06:60 when the anchorage became uncomfortable due to the wind that was blowing along the shore line. I mover 6km further into the Brest harbour, which is huge. I found a sheltered spot at Lanveoc and dropped the hook for the presentation. Geku messaged me to say that it was delayed by an hour so I went up into town to get some food from the local épicerie. it was a steep climb up to the village and when I got there it was closed on Monday. Dinner tonight will be whatever I have in the store cupboard. The bakers was open for bread and pain au chocolat so the trip was not wasted.
The presentation went down well we think.
I then set off to pick up Captain Maz from Brest. The rain was relentless I was in full waterproofs and Captain Maz arrived wearing a T shirt apparently it was nice in the UK when she left. Her moto has always been Numquam Sciens Paratus, and if you have a moto you should always live up to it.
I anchored off the marina in water that dries out at low tide, but as it was rising towards high there was depth where I left the boat but shallow down wind towards the shore. After picking up Carol we were getting her gear onto the boat when I realised that neither of us had tied the tender to the boat and it was 150m away heading towards the shallow water. Anchor up and a quick loop keeping an eye on the depth. Captain Maz driving and me fishing. Good pick up.
Now at anchor back at Lanveoc. Such a grey day. Tomorrow is looking better.
Monday grey clouds and Captain Maz
7th July 2024: 48 18.992N 4 32.436W: Brest, France.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 865.9nm.
Presentation tomorrow. Big day putting it all together.
6th July 2024: 48 18.992N 4 32.436W: Brest, France.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 865.9nm.
Another day with my head down working, presentation is on Monday morning, hopefully they will take their time choosing the option so that I can have a break. Captain Maz also arrives on Monday so I will have to get the crew to polish up the boat ready for her inspection.
There is a small island close to the anchorage called I’lle des Morts that has some old ruined stone warehouses standing prominently on top. Apparently the warehouses were a powder magazine that was moved there during the Napolionic blockade of Brest, by the British Navy, to keep the explosives away from the town. Previously the island was the burial ground for the leper colony that inhabited the other small island called IIe Treberon. The island of Treberon is very small, I cannot find any details of the number of Lepars that were sent there. I might take the tender over for a gander.
My legs have had enough time to recover from the muscle I pulled in Ireland so I went for a 6k run making sure that I stretched properly before I started. They held up, but I can still feel a tightness in my left thigh. My pace was very slow, but it felt great to be going again. I ran along the tracks that supplied the numerous shore batteries that were built in the 19 century to keep the Brits away from Brest.
A sort of BREXIT, I might have to get some cannons for EIVIVA.
Military roads supplying the coastal batteries, now good running routes.
5th July 2024: 48 18.992N 4 32.436W: Brest, France.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 865.9nm.
A solid day at the drawing board today making up for lost time sailing.
The weather is pants anyway. Windy, low cloud drizzle with the odd splatter of rain.
Come on July.
I blame it on the Tory party.
4th July 2024: 48 18.992N 4 32.436W: Brest, France.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 865.9nm.
Smoooooooth quiet anchorage, I slept for 10 hours without waking.
I forgot to fill out the UK Pleasure Craft Report that tells HMRC that you are leaving UK waters. I think I am still pre Brexit. I found that you can’t pre date the form so I phoned them up and a cheery man told me that they didn’t really care when I left the UK they just wanted to know when I arrived back. So not to don’t worry. On reflection I did this last year too. I filled one out anyway for today.
I then phone up the French Customs who were also very helpful, they were open until four oclock. Perfect. I launched the tender and whizzed the four nautical miles to Brest on the other side of the bay. When I arrived the office was closed for it’s two hour lunch break. I sat in a quay side café and had a slow lunch.
On the way back from the passport office I popped in to the marina office to book a slot for Monday when Carol arrives only to be told that the Brest Festival of the Seas was that week and everything is booked solid. This will require some planning as a bouncy four mile crossing in the tender loaded up with two people and luggage might not be appreciated at the end of a long trip.
On the plus side Mariquita the 1911 William Fife designed 19 meter class yacht was practicing outside Brest with full rig flying. What a beautiful yacht, with a great story from decay on a mud berth up the river Orwell to fully restored glory.
Make my day!
3rd July 2024: 48 18.992N 4 32.436W: Brest, France.
Day Log: 132.3nm. Total Log: 865.9nm.
What a way to spend a Wednesday.
My four o’clock alarm turned out to be irrelevant as my anchor alarm went off at 0100hrs. The wind had picked up fron the west as promised so the chain was probably going tight in the new direction. I widened the radius on the Anchor Pro app and went back to sleep. 01:30 it went off again. It might be dragging. I widened the radius another 10m and went back to sleep. 02:00 OK its dragging. I reluctantly climbed out of my warm bed and togged up, then out into the blackest night I can remember. The surrounding rocks were the same colour as the sky very unsettling. I raised the anchor and drove nervously to another spot with only the boat track as guidance on Navionics. On such a black night the anchor light on the other boat that arrived late was invaluable, without it I would not have known where it was. It took me two goes to get firmly planted, I got back into bed at about 0300hrs. Couldn’t get back to sleep. I gave up and had a cup of tea, before setting off to Brest at 0400hrs as planned
There was just enough light for me to see my way out through the rocks and islands into open water. Up with the mainsail and yankee, no staysail as the wind was blowing 20kts. We galloped off on a rumbustious beam reach towards the south. Once we had cleared to shadow of the islands the wind settled down as predicted between 17kts and 23kts, a nice force 5 accompanied by a grey punchy sea with a 3m swell on the beam. Happy days, even though it was raining on and off.
At one point EIVIVA picked up a wave on the bow and thew it into the cockpit, a common occurrence on XORO but a first on the Island Packet.
As always the shipping lanes were packed with ships especially the first west going one. Look at the screen shot below. I calculated the AIS vectors and came to the conclusion that I could just keep sailing at them at 8 kts and we would all miss. I think the captains had planned it that way as they were all squeezed in the only place that would enable me to keep going. The vectors of the ships on the image are 30 minutes long. We missed without slowing down or altering course, except for on ship that had to move south slightly. Which one?
Then within 30miles of Brest the wind died back to 5kts and it started to drizzle with half a NM visibility. Instead of going the long route around Quessant I decided to not be a chicken and go for the Chenal Du Four. In relative flat seas we hit a top speed of 10.2kts under engine that was running at about 6kts in normal conditions. At the exit of the race there was some wavy sea coming in from the south and it all turned very short and spikey for a couple of hundred metres. The Chenal must be untenable with a good wind over tide at springs.
I was quite tired when I did the tidal calculations through the Chenal Du Four. I we were very tight on time to get through before the tide changed against. All my timing was out compared to the notes I took before I set off which was confusing. I checked it all again on the iPad and everything was OK for the passage. Then I realised that my iPhone had jumped to French time and all the tidal data had moved an hour. Something to remember for the future.
We arrived at Posterman at 21:00hrs BST and threw the anchor overboard. That was quite a day at sea.
Well it looks rumbustious to me.
Yacht Master quiz.
2nd July 2024: 49 56.980N 6 15.602W: Scilly Islands.
Day Log: 0.2nm. Total Log: 733.6nm.
I spoke too soon about being comfortable last night. A nasty swell crept around the headland and caused the boat to roll around and keep me awake. I spent the day working with the tea sloshing around in my mug until about 1500hrs when I gave up and moved the boat. The new anchorage is only 0.2nm away from the last one, I should have moved in the morning, it is sheltered from the swell by an uninhabited island called Great Ganilly. I spent another couple of hours working in the blissful stillness then rowed over to the island and had a quick explore. Granite rock outcrops popping up through heather and wild flowers, very lovely on a nice afternoon like this. The place is a haven for a variety of seabirds, a seal popped its nose out of the water as I rowed back to EIVIVA.
At 0400hrs tomorrow I am setting off for Brest. The weather is quite strong from the west which hopefully means that it will be a good angle for EIVIVA and we will make good speed. The Chenal Du Four between mainland France and Ile D’Quessant is a scary bit of water. I went through it last year with a 5 knot tide running with me and no wind. It was churning alarmingly. It is a short cut to Brest but with the predicted force 6-7 blowing over it, I am planning to take the long way round.
Call me a chicken if you will.
Great Ganilly
1st July 2024: 49 57.474N 6 15.995W: Scilly Islands.
Day Log: 4.0nm. Total Log: 733.4nm.
The wind has gone around to the north west and is blowing 14kts or so. My anchorage outsie the Hugh Town breakwater is open to the Atlantic in that direction. By lunchtime I gave up trying to work as my brain was being scrambled by the half metre waves that were flopping the boat around and the continual ferry traffic to the outlying islands that added their wake to the chaos. I had only come to Hugh Town so that I could go to the food shop. I jumped in the tender and got some supplies then headed for shelter in the lee of the Island of St. Martin’s at English Island Point.
It was high tide so I took the green route. Now that the tide is low and I can see what I missed I might have gone the long way around. Very comfy here I will sleep well.
The weather is looking good for a run to Brest over night tomorrow. I am still tired from the trip from Ireland so I will make a decision in the morning. The wind on Thursday is predicted 20 plus knots on the beam so it will be good sailing.
The green route.
30th June 2024: 49 55.332N 6 18.910W: Scilly Islands.
Day Log: 9.0nm. Total Log: 729.4nm.
At 0500hrs EIVIVA was rolling so much it woke me up. I can sleep through normal roll but when I have to put my leg out to stop turning over, I know that it is time to get up and have a look see. I was also worried about the single mooring line I had around the buoy as I could feel it snatching. On poking my head out of the hatch the German flagged boat behind me was doing a good impression of a bucking bronco. The weather forecast had got it wrong and a 14kt northerly was blowing over the Celtic Sea straight down the anchorage.
I decided to move on, By 0530hrs I was driving the 9NM around the islands to Hugh Town. As a rule I never tow the dinghy as it puts loads of stress on both it and the painter. But it was only 9NM. The shallow depth and the incoming sea made for some lively waves and the dinghy was weaving and surfing behind us. The painter didn’t break, but when we arrived in Hugh Town it was looking close to it. I’m not towing again.
By 0900hrs I was at anchor in my normal cove off the entrance to Hugh Town. It was still lively, but nothing compared to Hangman Island.
Then back to work for the rest of the day.
I went over to the Mermaid pub to watch the second half of England V Slovakia. Nice goal from Bellingham in the 95th minute. The pub went totally bonkers.
Back to the boat for dinner and hopefully a good nights sleep.
29th June 2024: 49 57.567N 8 20.886W: Scilly Islands.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 720.4nm.
Slept without dreams until Carol rudely woke me with a phone call at ten. I ignored the phone but my brain kicked in. I still ignored the phone and got up to make coffee.
I tidied up from yesterday’s passage, not so bad, then had breakfast (brunch?) and got into work. At 1700hrs I had had enough work and took the tender to the New Inn on Tresco and had a couple of pints of Tribute. Tommy no mates, but as it was my first beer since Lucy left it didn’t go down sideways. Back to the boat, chicken pasta and writing this. Now I will sleep like a baby.
No phone calls please.
I like these islands. Buckets and spades and adventures from my childhood around every corner.
28th June 2024: 49 57.567N 8 20.886W: Scilly Islands.
Day Log: 130.9nm. Total Log: 720.4nm.
We shipped the anchor at 10:15hrs on the voyage to the Scilly Isles, 130nm to the south. EIVIVA and me.
On the way out of the Kinsale estuary the wind was disappointingly light. A French Dufour 365, Yug Enna 2, that was anchored just behind us followed us out about 400m behind, hoisted a set of fancy looking black sails and began to reel us in. What wind there was came from the SW, on the beam, a good angle for the Island Packet but even so we were only making 6kts SOG in 9Kts of wind. I’m used to this average light wind performance by now, so I made a cup of tea and resisted the urge to look over my shoulder. I could hear Carol in my head telling me that they are not racing you. But I also know that the definition of a boat race is two boats on the water in sight of each other. Especially so if fancy sails are involved. An hour later we had cleared the wind shadow of the mainland and had 15kts on the beam in a 3m sea that was left over from yesterdays blow. EIVIVA territory! By the time we were halfway to the Scilly Isles we had left the Dufour some miles astern.
Then as predicted (although I was hoping the forecast was wrong) the wind weakened and went SSW, creating an angle not far off close hauled for EIVIVA. The Dufour was now in its element, and slowly started to come back over the horizon. By the time the sun had set it was only a couple of miles behind.
Overnight, dozing for more than ten minutes at a time was impossible as the sea was full of fishing boats and other sailing boats going north to Ireland. The radar was not picking up the Dufour, I think they need a better radar reflector or us a better radar. Halfway through the night I had an unreasonable urge for Marmite on toast. During the preparation process I disobeyed my, always one hand for the boat, rule. A large rogue double wave that caught the boat on the beam left me sitting on the floor on the other side of the boat, I didn’t drop the toast that was in one hand or the marmite covered knife that was in the other. Spiderman skills.
A trip of two halves, 75nm with strong wind on the beam and reasonably big sea, then 75nm with a milder wind on the nose and a smoother sea. Both boats arrived at the Scilly Isles within a couple of hundred metres of each other. Good company, even if he wasn’t trying to get there first, Carol.
Picked up an empty mooring buoy just off Hangman Island between Bryher and Tresco at 0500hrs.
Was asleep before my head hit the pillow.
Here we go again!
Mild wind and smooth seas as the sun went down.
Arriving at the Scilly Isles with Yug Enna 2 keeping company.
27th June 2024: 51 41.7881N 8 31.155W: Kinsale, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 589.5nm.
Another day in front of the computer. Very happy with Starlink, it allows seamless working away from home without any delay. Last year I was often waiting on 5G or worse mobile phone signal connection which was quite frustrating.
I went into town to pick up some laundry and get Camping Gas and shopping then back to work for the rest of the day.
A chap on the radio said he had a severe case of electile dysfunction. After a day listening to the news channel I get that.
There is a force 8 gale warning for this part of Ireland today and white caps have been rolling down the anchorage all day, accompanied by the howling of the wind generator. The weather tomorrow is looking good for the run down to the Scilly Isles. The wind is forecast 15kts gusting 20kts and veering from W to SW as the day goes on. Hopefully the sea state will be OK but with a very windy central Atlantic it might be a little sporty.
Tomorrow morning, If the forecast holds, I will set of on the first leg of the trip to La Rochelle.
26th June 2024: 51 41.7881N 8 31.155W: Kinsale, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 589.5nm.
Started work at 0600hrs and stopped at 2000hrs. We have 7 working days left to go until the first presentation. We are in a good place though.
Raining on and off with associated grey sky. Geku says that there is a heatwave going on in UK, he was sitting in 23 degrees. It is 13 degrees here.
Apparently, the UK gets it tomorrow.
25th June 2024: 51 41.7881N 8 31.155W: Kinsale, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.1nm. Total Log: 589.5nm.
Lucy left for Glasgow today at 1200hrs. First one bus to Cork then another to Dublin then a flight to Glasgow. I guess she will be there at 2200, that is quite a schlep. Before she left we took to boat over to the Kinsale Yacht Club marina for a couple of hours to fill up the water tank. It cost 20 euro for the stay, but the water tank was almost empty, it probably took close to one thousand litres. Tuppence a litre, cheap water.
I we went to the bus stop via the Lemon Leaf Cafe where we had brunch at 11 o’clock to set Lucy right for her travels. It has been great having First Mate Lucy aboard for the last week. Although I was working throughout we managed to have fun in between. We explored the countryside on foot and usually ended up with a pint of Murphy’s in someone’s front room that had been converted into a pub.
It was a typically grey day today and it is Kinsale again so instead of a photo I will share something from Lucy’s Imaginarium.
You get glimpses, occasionally,
Of the seas ahead.
Just beyond the flotsam and jetsam,
Foaming, frothing, gnashing, flowing.
Calm seas, rough seas,
Tiny islands filled with life,
Desolate sand banks, haunted coves.
All keeps moving in perpetual motion,
To somewhere, something, always.
The intense white noise intermingled
With brine, preservation.
It’s not as simple as floating,
You have to swim.
24th June 2024: 51 41.7881N 8 31.155W: Kinsale, Ireland.
Day Log: 30.8nm. Total Log: 589.4nm.
My alarm went off at 0600hrs so that we could catch most of the tide towards Kinsale. I had a look out and was greeted by thick fog with 100m visibility. I went back to bed and slept in until 0800hrs by which time the fog had lifted sufficienbt to see the buoyage that maked the rocks called the dangers that crowded the exit to the anchorage. Even so, without Navionics and Radar I would not have set out today.
No wind and an oily sea until we arrived in Kinsale. The visibility was never more than 400m. Lucy stayed on deck keeping a watch out, I went below with the radar running on the Raymarine chart plotter and navionics on my ipad. In these flat seas the radar was picking up lobster pots, very impressive. The trip took 6 hours and I managed to get a bunch of design work done in between glance at the navigation.
We grabbed a buoy in Kinsale belonging to the Yacht Club then phone up to see if it was OK. Not good for our weight apparently so we moved up the river towards the Kinsale Bridge and dropped the anchor there. Saving twenty euro a night no doubt.
There really was no point trying to take photographs on such a windless grey day..
23rd June 2024: 51 344711N 9 10.312W: Glandore, Ireland.
Day Log: 10.0nm. Total Log: 558.6nm.
Lovely day today. The sun is out again. We took the tender up the estuary to visit a rather strange shingle spit that sits out into the water like a pier. Over the ages people have dragged their old boats onto the spit and left them there to fall apart. I went past the spit when I was here a couple of weeks ago, today we went ashore and had a gander. We found a caravan selling ice cream and treated ourselves to a vanilla tub with a shot of hot expresso poured over the top. Very good.
In the middle of the day we set off for Glandor, it is only around the corner from Castletownsend so I played around in the light wind with a rig I have been thinking about that uses a Barber hauler to achieve a better sheeting angle on the Yankee. I might be onto something.
On the way out of the anchorage I spotted a beach with interesting rocks lining the waters edge, we anchored again and took the dinghy ashore to explore. It is all very beautiful here, almost impossible to take a bad photograph.
We ended up under engine as the wind had dropped under 6kts. In the evening we went up to the pubs that overlook to anchorage and sat in the sun eating Union Hall haddock with chips. Union hall is a fishing village that you can see from Glandor. The fish gets delivered fresh to the pub.
We are both quite tired today and we have a 0600 start to get four hours of tide in our favour for the 30nm trip to Kinsale, so it is early to bed.
Lucy found a new friend by the ice cream and expresso van.
Beautiful un-named rocky beach on the way to Glandore.
22nd June 2024: 51 344711N 9 10.312W: Castletownsend, Ireland.
Day Log: 12.0nm. Total Log: 548.6nm.
Low cloud, drizzle, grey and the odd downpour of proper rain swept across the Baltimore anchorage this morning. The weather forecast said that it would clear up by 1600hrs so I decided to do Mondays work today and spend Monday getting from Glandore to Kinsale.
I worked, Lucy chilled. Then the weather lifted as forecast and we set out for Castlehaven.
When we arrived we discovered that the anchorage was full of yachts from the Royal Yacht Squadron. White ensign with St George’s cross. They were all in the pub later, I think that our self proclaimed red ensign made us common people less interesting. I might have to upgrade to a blue ensign so that we can be taken seriously. But have the feeling that in this exulted company a blue would not good enough either.
21st June 2024: 51 28.811N 9 23.934W: Baltimore, Ireland.
Day Log: 1.0nm. Total Log: 536.6nm.
Up early again but not as early as yesterday. Started work at 0700hrs on the Kyrenia masterplan. The rain was very loud on the cabin top and continued drumming until about 1400hrs when it stopped and blue sky reappeared to lift the spirits. I have always quite liked to work in the rain, it’s not as if you are missing out on the day.
At around 0800hrs we were being rolled around where we were anchored as the wind had a little south in it and the waves were entering the bay. We decided to do the twenty minute motor to Baltimore, in the rain. Typically it really started to chuck it down on the way. It was so heavy Lucy started to giggle on the helm. I discovered my 20 year old Musto waterproofs were no longer water proof, I will have to get some new ones, they now cost the best part of £2,000 but if they last 20 years that is not so bad.
In the afternoon we took the tender over to Baltimore and walked up to the Beacon. A week ago, I was quite out of breath having run the route but today I had time to savour the scenery. Then back into town for some food shopping and an ice cream. The sea was very spikey on the way back to the boat and we both got a good soaking by the time we reached the comfort of EIVIVA.
As it is Friday night we braved the spikey stretch of water in search of a beer and some grub. We had a very acceptable grilled hake with chips and garlic butter in Jacobs Bar, fresh from the fishing boat and a glass or two of wine to wash it down.
Can’t really see it here but it was chucking it down.
20th June 2024: 51 28.811N 9 23.934W: Sherkin Island, Ireland.
Day Log: 8.0nm. Total Log: 535.6nm.
Today was a work day for me so I got up at 0600hrs and got going. Lucy chilled out in the sun and had a swim. By two o’clock I had achieved what I wanted to do work wise so we jumped into the tender and went to explore the sea caves we had seen at the mouth of the bay. Totally spectacular. The rock formation and colours were so unreal it was like looking at a Disney movie. The colours in the photographs are straight from the camera.
Then we raised the anchor and set sail in 7kts of wind down wind to Sherkin Island to find the Jolly Roger pub. It was OK but nothing more. Back on the boat now and Lucy is cooking pasta. Long day for me, I need my bed.
You cant really appreciate the scale, but these caves are big.
19th June 2024: 51 25.904N 9 30.136W: Cape Clear, Ireland.
Day Log: 17.8nm. Total Log: 527.6nm.
First mate Lucy made breakfast sandwiches from buttered fruit loaf, bacon and marmalade. She thought it was fantastic. I was still feeling slightly queasy a couple of hours later.
We took the dinghy towards the old coastguard cottages and Crookhaven lighthouse as there are two old watch towers that looked interesting and worth a visit. It turned out to be a nice walk in the country, we managed to get up to one of the towers which afforded a good view of Crookhaven harbour.
Then back to the boat for lunch, not that I was feeling like eating, still thinking of marmalade and bacon.
The wind was nonexistent in the harbour but when we popped our nose out into the Atlantic a nice breeze from the west was blowing at 12kts. Perfect for a loop around the Fastnet rock then on to Cape Clear Island where we dropped the anchor in South Harbour a couple of hours later.
Fastnet Rock……..again.
We are there by the tower.
18th June 2024: 51 28.329N 9 43.428W: Crookhaven, Ireland.
Day Log: 6.0nm. Total Log: 509.8nm.
It was quite breezy this morning, so much so that a short chop had built up in the anchorage sufficiently spikey to get us well splashed on the way to the shops in the tender.
After our food shopping expedition, we set sail up the rock infested inland passage to Crookhaven. First mate Lucy did a great job driving under sail. It is quite an intimidating route as the rocks are sometimes very close on both sides, when I first did the inland passage some days ago I would not have attempted it under sail. Today with 14kts of wind on the beam it was comfortable, but required constant focus to keep to the centre line.
In Crookhaven we went up the hill to where Marconi sent his first radio morse code signal. The hill wasn’t any easier for me although Lucy seemed to have no difficulty, it must be all that work in the gym paying off. By the time we got back to the village we were thirsty enough to have a beer. Then back to the boat for a chicken balti that I prepared when we first arrived in Crookhaven.
Gally Cove Bay at the bottom of Browhead hill.
Marconi’s aerial base where he received morse code from Cornwall in 1906. The first long range transmission without wires. Apparently he had an Irish mum who helped sponsor his experiments.
17th June 2024: 51 31.438N 9 32.246W: Schull, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 503.8nm.
Once again I spent the day working. This retirement game feels a lot like the last forty odd years.
Lucy set off at 0700 hrs grom Glasgow and arrived in Schull 12 hours later. Flight to Dublin followed by a bus to Cork, 8.5 hours so far. Then with four minutes until the bus left for Schull Lucy discovered that the bus only took cash! And she had left her cards at home. Bugger! Lucy convinced the inspector and the man on the bus that I would be waiting at the bus stop with 16 euro in Schull.
I was there.
We celebrated her arrival with two pints of Murphy’s and a fish an chip dinner. Having told Lucy to remind me to get cash out of the cash point before walking down the hill to the fish and chip shop…..we remembered as we got there, so I jogged back up the hill. By the time I got back the man who served me the last couple of times had worked out who Lucy was.
I guess these people pays all their taxes.
On the boat I challenged Lucy to beat the intro on a tune that has been in my brain all day. Cat People by Bowie. She had it on the first note. Almost as impressive as the seagull.
Fish and chips 3 nights this week, I could live here and have fish and chips every night they are that good.
Tomorrow we will go exploring.
I asked this seagull why it was standing on a tight rope when there was a perfectly good beam to stand on right Infront of him (or her or they……can you have they seagulls? Do they know they are they?) In any case, it didn’t reply, quite rude really as I asked it twice. Perhaps it was hard of hearing. Webbed feet too, impressive.
16th June 2024: 51 31.438N 9 32.246W: Schull, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 503.8nm.
Got stuck into the Kyrenia project again. I think the options we are doing are all starting to feel good, first presentation on 5th July.
At 19:00 hrs I took the tender to shore and had fish and chips again. They are 16 euro but excellent and worth the money. I will take first mate Lucy for fish and chips tomorrow when she arrives at 19:00.
Back on EIVIVA now. It is half time England V Serbia. We looked great to start but Serbia is coming back…….
Tea break in the sunshine, rather nice today after the wind and rain of the last few days.
On the way to the fish and chip place. Looks like I left the anchor light on all day again.
15th June 2024: 51 31.438N 9 32.246W: Schull, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 503.8nm.
Spent the day working. Lucy is arriving on Monday so I will work through the weekend to get some time off next week to do things together. The wind is still howling over the anchorage. I popped my head out and was impressed by the waves that had built up over a couple of hundred metres. Switching on the instruments I saw 32kts of wind speed in the shelter of the bay. I’m glad I didn’t wait for today to move the boat into the relative shelter of Schull from these westerlies.
At 17:00 hrs I had had enough of work and went to the shops. On the way I paid the fish and chip man, it was more expensive than I thought it should have been but I didn’t complain, perhaps he added on interest.
Now watching Atomic Blonde on telly, again. I might not get to the end of the movie but Charlize Theron is a spectacle to behold. The fight scene in the stair well is very well done.
14th June 2024: 51 31.438N 9 32.246W: Schull, Ireland.
Day Log: 10.0nm. Total Log: 503.8nm.
Rained hard over night again with strong wind from the west. The anchor held as it has always done (I am touch wood). Early morning the sun shone through the rain at the encroaching blanket of dark clouds and created a rainbow over St Brendan’s Church. Soon after that I was working on the Kyrenia project again, at times the rain was so hard it drowned out the radio station I was listening to.
The sun arrived early afternoon and at around 16:00hrs I decided to head back to Schull where there is a reasonable supermarket and more protected from the west wind that was now blowing. Once we cleared Crookhaven harbour there were big seas left over from the last few days, but only 25kts of wind. We romped along out towards the Fastnet just for the fun of it and gybed back towards Schull.
By the time we were tucked up in Schull it was 18:00hrs so I launched the tender and headed into the town for a pint of Murphy’s or two.
On the way back to the boat I noticed that the fish and chip shop was open so I popped it to get some, only to discover that it was cash only. So back up to the supermarket, in the drizzle, where the only cash point in town did not do contactless from my bank. I went back to apologise for no cash and the man that ran the place said that I could come back and pay tomorrow. Unlike the fish and chips around Brighton where you get something thin that smells fishy between two thick chunks of batter, this shop is attached to the market where the fishing boats bring in the fish, so it was a big chunk of fresh fish with a thin batter. Just the best fish and chips I have ever had. I will be back for more tomorrow when I pay for tonight.
Struggling for a good caption
13th June 2024: 51 28.329N 9 43.428W: Crookhaven, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 493.8nm.
Crikey, it was quite windy and rainy last night. I wish it didn’t say 15 tons max on the buoy. This kept me semi awake all night. There was a point that I thought I was dragging the buoy around as we appeared to be gradually moving on the Anchor Pro app. But in hindsight I think that the chain under water is so short that at low tide the circle that the boat makes around it has a longer diameter. So it looks like we are slipping away from the centre.
I worked all day.
At home making a cup of tea requires an element of walking. On the boat it is two paces to the kettle and as a result I can feel my body not enjoying the lack of movement. I might start walking around the deck, 250 laps would be about 6K, no hills just rain and wind.
Colm and Reg (I asked her name when they left) set out for Bear Island into the teeth of it. I hope they did OK, the first half of the journey must have been a little grim, but the second half would have been a beam reach so good sailing. A Contessa 32 is a good boat for the job.
I have a photo I just took of the rain but it is refusing to upload. I will try again in the morning.
12th June 2024: 51 28.329N 9 43.428W: Crookhaven, Ireland.
Day Log: 6.0nm. Total Log: 493.8nm.
Worked the morning then at 14:00hrs decided to go on a run along the shoreline route that Randall and I took a couple of days ago. Only one hill but it was a short punchy one. Then two kilometres from home I pulled my right calf. Bugger. Just as I was enjoying running again. Possibly, stupidly, I jogged home. But now it hurts, spent the rest of the day hobbling around.
There’s a forty knot wind predicted over night and into tomorrow morning blowing from the south. Schull is open to the south so I motored along the rock strewn inshore passage back to Crookhaven where it should be better protected. I picked up an anchor buoy and attached my self to it with the eight metre long bridal I made last year. The first time I have used it, I forgot how over engineered it is! The bridal isn’t going to break, but the buoy says maximum 15 tons. I hope the people that installed it allowed for a little extra.
Then back to work. At 18:00hrs I popped over to town for some victuals and on the way back spotted Goldeneye and Colm picking up a buoy close to EIVIVA. I gave him a lift over to shore so that he could pick up a parcel that had been delivered to the pub for him. Then after dinner we regrouped with his lady friend (typically I did not catch her name) on board his boat and swapped stories
Schull like a millpond
0700hrs tomorrow morning
11th June 2024: 51 31.438N 9 32.246W: Schull, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 487.8nm.
I started work at 08:00hrs and stopped at 19:00hrs. Dinner, Sleep. That’s it.
Today I looked out of the hatch twice, it was sunny, and calm.
Exciting day on the water.
10th June 2024: 51 31.438N 9 32.246W: Schull, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 487.8nm.
Randall left for his trip back to Australia today. Before he went, we took his hire car to go and find Castle Point Tower. We spotted a photograph of the tower in the window of a photographer and it looked interesting enough to go and have a look. The tower is on the end of a promontory situated on an outcrop of rock that was separated from the mainland by a deep rocky sea channel. A small bridge was the only access, I would imagine in the past a drawbridge would have been used. It was well worth the kilometre walk across rugged farm land to get to the tower which was as impressive as it appeared in the photograph.
Randall dropped me off in Schull centre so that I could do some shopping. It has been great having a mate to chat with over the weekend. I was starting to get bored of talking to myself. Its not what I say, it’s the idiot that replies that’s the problem.
Rest of the day was work. I went for fish and chips but everywhere was closed on Monday.
Castle Point Tower and Randall.
9th June 2024: 51 31.438N 9 32.246W: Schull, Ireland.
Day Log: 20.1nm. Total Log: 487.8nm.
What a change from yesterday.
We were up and off the anchor by 10:00hrs into a weather forecast of cloud and 7kts of wind. As it happened the sun was shining and as we left Crookhaven the wind picked up to 15kts from the west. We were going to sail slowly down the coast back to Scull but decided to do another loop of the Fastnet lighthouse. EIVIVA picked up her skirts and flew to the south towards the Fastnet. The sea was on the beam and the Atlantic was picking up a two metre swell but she was doing what she does best, fast and comfortable. Once we rounded the rock we saw 10.2kts of SOG against a half knot tide, the fastest I have ever seen her go. We flew back to Schull. I think EIVIVA was embarrassed by yesterday’s performance and put on a show for us. Wonderful sailing.
In the afternoon Randall and I walked south down the coast towards Colla Trail Head a six kilometre route that offered some great views over the Schull estuary. Obviously, as it is the weekend and Randall leaves to go back to Australia tomorrow we found ourselves back in Hackett’s bar drinking a few pints of Murphey’s. Tonight, there was an Irish band playing country and western and the usual mix of happy Irish locals speaking blarney. All in a pub the size of your average living room. Great fun day.
EIVIVA at 10.2kts. She was picking her skirts up!
Another two pints of Murphy’s please.
8th June 2024: 51 28.329N 9 43.428W: Crookhaven, Ireland.
Day Log: 17.8nm. Total Log: 467.7nm.
We decided to sail to Crookhaven via the Fastnet lighthouse a loop of 17.8nm. Setting sail at about 10:00hrs we left the harbour in indifferent wind that rarely achieved 10kts and a lumpy sea that further slowed things down. In the end we had to motor the last part to the Fastnet then turn for home directly into what wind there was. An unexceptional sail where the wind and the sea created conditions that showed all of the boats least favourite points of sail. On the plus side it was a sunny day and the Fastnet rock and lighthouse were well worth the trip out.
We slowly sailed into Crookhaven at about 14:00hrs and had a quick lunch then took the dinghy to Crookhaven Jetty and walked from the town up the steep hill to the ruined watch tower on Brow Head. This was the transmitting point for Marconi when he successfully sent morse code over distance to Cornwall. It is also the most southern point of mainland Ireland. After our exertions walking the hill, we found ourselves sitting outside O’Sullivan’s Bar overlooking the anchorage enjoying a nice pint of Murphy’s. Apart from the indifferent sailing it was a great day out with good company.
Above, EIVIVA at anchor Crookhaven from Brow Head, below spectacular scenery from the track to Brow Head.
7th June 2024: 51 31.438N 9 32.246W: Schull, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 449.9nm.
Another day at work.
Randall an old friend from Dubai arrived at 1500 having flown from Amsterdam where he was in transit back to Australia having just completed a five month sailing trip in the Caribbean, from Puerto Rico to Grenada. Great to catch up after 28 years or so with only the odd email in between.
6th June 2024: 51 31.438N 9 32.246W: Schull, Ireland.
Day Log: 7.7nm. Total Log: 449.9nm.
Didn’t sleep well last night, the anchorage was a little lumpy at times and woke me up. Then my mind would start thinking about work things. In the end I gave up and did the work things. As I started early I finished early and set sail for Schull to the north only 7.7nm away.
The wind was on the beam and blowing 10 to 12kts so we moved along at a reasonable cruising pace across an Island strewn stretch of grey Atlantic. As there was no sun the north west wind had quite a chill to it then as we approached Schull Harbour it started to drizzle. Nice.
The wind speed dropped in the shelter of the hills that surround the harbour enabling me to sail right up to the anchorage and drop the sails a hundred metres from where I eventually stopped. I will do it all without using the engine one day, the last time I sailed onto anchor was during my yacht master exam, was it really 28 years ago? Luff up, wait for the boat to stop, chuck in the anchor, take down sails. Simple…..
Went to fill up the tender petrol tank as there is a service station here and was impressed how little fuel the Honda 6 uses. I have been zooming around in the tender a lot since I set out and it had only used 13 litres, half the tank.
In a moment of tidiness, I cleaned out the fridge this evening. I found half a loaf of slightly mouldy Hovis, I don’t like Hovis that is why it wasn’t finished, then I forgot I had it. I thought that I would throw the bread overboard, which I did, accidentally dropping the plastic wrapped into the water. Bread and wrapper were swiftly taken away from the boat by the wind so in a moment of environmental friendliness I jumped into the tender and rowed after the wrapper….surrounded by bread. I think the seagulls thought that I was offering myself up as dinner. I started frantically waving an oar over my head to drive them away. When I peep out of the portlight they are still out there looking at me.
Although I was slightly distracted I did manage to save the planet.
Where has all the sun gone?
5th June 2024: 51 26.029N 9 30.094W: Cape Clear Island, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 442.2nm.
Up early and into work again. Big presentation in four weeks and I want to know that we have some good option to show. This first part is always stressful until you know what you are doing.
I have spent the last few years in semi retirement and I have forgotten how to sit Infront of a computer for 8 hours. It is all coming back. Back being the operative word here.
At 17:30 I had had enough. I think we have four good ones in the bag. I launched the tender and headed out to walk over the hill to the north harbour. Not so far. Another very lovely island, what they definitely do not require is an iconic architectural intervention! I eventually found myself in the local pub, more reminiscent of a front room. It was a local lady’s birthday and we all sang Happy Birthday and ate chocolate cake. Then back over the hill to south harbour. Nice way to finish a working day.
South harbour, Cape Clear Island.
It is always slightly unnerving being the only boat. What have I missed?
North Harbour, looking towards Schull on the horizon. Tomorrows destination.
North Harbour, looking the other way…….
Cotter’s Bar.
4th June 2024: 51 26.029N 9 30.094W: Cape Clear Island, Ireland.
Day Log: 7.0nm. Total Log: 442.2nm.
Woke up at 07:00 to light drizzle and grey skies, that more like the Ireland I was expecting. No worries though as I had a lot of design work to do. Every now and then I poked by head out of the companion way to remind myself that I now have a mobile office parked in a lovely part of the world. Sitting in front of a computer is the same wherever you are.
At 15:30 the wind started to make the wind generator whine a little so I knew it was blowing in the teens. The sun had come out and the sky was mostly cloudless. Time to go sailing!
Picked up the anchor and rolled out the sails within 100m. Then off into wind towards Cape Clear Island and the southern anchorage called South harbour, 7nm away. The wind is blowing from the WNW and the Navily app says that the inlet is protected from that direction. Once on the way the wind was gusty as it blew over the islands, one second 10kts the next 25kts. I had the full rig out and as we approached Clear Island with the Fastnet rock on the horizon, EIVIVA was well over canvassed. But I was having too much fun to take in a reef, we even dipped the gunnels a couple of times! Most unrefined.
The sea was quite rough at the entrance to the harbour but as soon as we moved deeper into the shelter of the cliffs it all calmed down. It took two attempts to anchor as I was too close to some uncharted rocks the first time. Moved into slightly deeper water and now feel safer here.
A beautiful and peaceful bay. I will fly the drone as sunset if the wind moderates and add a photo. This is the first bay that has no telephone signal at all. Starlink to the rescue!
Fastnet rock and lighthouse on the horizon if you look hard. It is only 3.5nm away so wind permitting I will sail around it.
Nice sea cliffs at entrance to South Harbour.
3rd June 2024: 51 28.854N 9 23.897W: Skerkin Island, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.1nm. Total Log: 435.2nm.
I obviously lost track of time yesterday. Today is bank holiday Monday. But not in the UK so I had a conference call about work stuff then headed over to Baltimore to see whether the shop was stocked up, but it’s bank holiday and no food deliveries. Fresh bread straight out of the oven made up for it though. Back to the boat then decided to run to the beacon via the hill behind it to get the distance up to 6k. In the end I couldn’t get from the hill to the beacon as the footpaths were all blocked, I added another kilometre or so going up and down dead ends for a while. The sheep thought it was funny when I passed them for the fourth time in ten minutes. Spectacular view when I finally reached the beacon.
I then had another work call before I engine EIVIVA 0.1nm across the bay to the anchorage on Sherkin Island. More work then I went for a wander around the east of the island to see what was there.
The foot coastal loop footpath was well trodden.
The friary was destroyed when the chiefs of the Sherkin Island, who were apparently also pirates captured a Portuguese ship full of wine that was heading for Waterford. The Waterford boys retaliated by sacking the castle and the friary in the Battle of the Wine Barrels 1537.
Then there was Captain Boyton who was called the Fearless Frogman. In 1875 he invented a pair of rubber trousers that you inflated by blowing into a tube. To be used when you fell overboard from a steam ship. He demonstrated their usefulness by jumping off a ship close to Skerkin Island. Apparently he reappeared twenty minutes later.
As a result of the Battle of the Wine Barrels.
EIVIVA moored where the men of war are at anchor
Well trodden coastal path.
My sort of chap.
2nd June 2024: 51 29.094N 9 22.712W: Baltimore, Ireland.
Day Log: 11.7nm. Total Log: 435.1nm.
Raised the anchor at 0930hrs and set out in the sunshine for Baltimore.
Once again there was little wind and what there was blew from the direction of my destination. With about 0.5kts of tide against until 1600hrs there was little point in tacking, so we gently chugged south westwards, conserving fuel with a boat speed of about 4.5kts. As the coastline curved towards the west I continued out to sea, then when I had a tacking angle switched off the engine and close hauled the last few miles towards entrance of Baltimore Harbour. As the sea was very flat EIVIVA managed to hold forty degrees to the wind with a respectable 5.5kts boat speed in 9kts of true wind.
There is what looks like a space rocket manned by brown cows guarding the entrance to the harbour. A local landmark called the Baltimore Beacon, I can feel a run to the beacon coming up tomorrow.
We avoided Lousy Rocks and anchored of the town quay in 3m of water. Baltimore is smaller than Kinsale, a resort town with bars and gift shops and one convenience store that has a low stock of a few essentials. It does have a castle that was built in 1620 on the site of other forts that had occupied the spot since 1215. The current fortified house fell into ruin but was restored a few years ago into a private dwelling that can be partially viewed.
Its bank holiday Monday here today and the town is full of tourists, I rowed over and took a quick look then escaped back to the boat.
More picturesque in the magic hour.
Dun na Sead Castle.
1st June 2024: 51 31.637N 9 10.174W: Castletownsend, Ireland.
Day Log: 6.0nm. Total Log: 423.4nm.
We had a lovely sail today from Glandore to a place called Castletownsend. The trip was only 6nm but with a 7 knot sea breeze from the south it took a blissful two hours to complete. We sailed along at a stately 3.5kts under an unbroken blue sky, not a ripple on the water. As the going was so peaceful I navigated the narrow inshore route to the west of Adam and Eve islands then past rabbit island and stack of beans island and on to Castle Townsend through Big Sound leaving Low Island and High Island to seaward. I could see why they called the Low and High Islands low and high, because they were. Rabbit and Stack of Beans required more than my imagination could produce.
We sailed within a couple of hundred yards of the anchorage until the wind was taken by the surrounding hills then broke the silence with the iron donkey. I had hoped to sail onto the anchor but probably just as well the wind died as much can go wrong with that manoeuvre sailing solo.
We are now at anchor in 3m of water on a perfect sandy bottom in a lovely estuary with the village of Castletownsend rising away from the water on the west bank and farm land and a ruined castle tower on the east.
Castletownsend is a nice enough village with some restored stone warehouses along the waters edge and an 1826 Victorian Church overlooking the bay. Other than that it is known for Mary Ann’s Bar and the battle of Castlehaven that took place in 1601.
From Wikipedia. The Battle of Castlehaven was a naval battle that took place on 6 December 1601 in the bay off Castlehaven on the south coast of Ireland during the Nine Years' War between a Spanish naval convoy of six ships and an English fleet, commanded by Admiral Richard Leveson and consisting of four warships. The Spanish convoy was protected by fortified positions on shore, a castle, and 600 Spanish and Irish footmen. Five out of six Spanish ships, commanded by General Pedro de Zubiaur were either sunk, captured, or run aground in the battle, while the English fleet lost no ships.
Entrance to Castlehaven in stormy weather.
EIVIVA in the middle of the bay
31st May 2024: 51 33.676N 9 07.072W: Glandore, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 417.4nm.
Blue sky sunshine and a beautiful anchorage. What more could you wish to wakeup to. OK, it is still northerly weather and the temperature in the shade is only 12 degrees but wonderfully rewarding all the same.
I spent the morning working then went for a run. It is rather hilly here and obviously the sea is at the lowest point of the run, I managed to not stop on the way around although the incline was at times challenging. Then back to EIVIVA and more work until 1800hrs when the pub that I passed on the way back beckoned me for a pint of beer or two.
Back on the boat now with Irish Pascal in the oven. Bacon wrapped chicken fillet with an unusual herb stuffing,. Second night in a row so I threw a garlic and tomato sauce around it.
View from my run with Union Hall village in the background and EIVIVA in the foreground.
Life the universe and everything.
30th May 2024: 51 33.676N 9 07.072W: Glandore, Ireland.
Day Log: 30.1nm. Total Log: 417.4nm.
I did not sleep well for some reason, but I was up and working by 0800hrs all the same.
The tide was set to run westwards down the coast from about 1400hrs, but I wanted to be off the anchor and going around noon. The wind was predicted to be about 15kts gusting 25kts from the NNW which I thought would result in a good sail as the coast line would be close enough to stop any waves from building up. It was ripping over the Kinsale anchorage at well over 20kts before I left so I was fully geared up just in case it was nasty out at sea.
I had the sails rolled out and the engine off within 5 minutes of setting of from Kinsale at 12:30 and furled in at 16:00 30nm away at the entrance to Glandore. The weather was as predicted although once out to sea the wind did not exceed 20kts, the sea state was smooth and EIVIVA had a clean bottom, as a result our average speed was about 8.5kts. The scenery was quite lovely. Picturesque green hills rolling towards the sea where they ended in stratified grey cliffs. On a nice day like this it was great sailing.
The entrance to Glandore has rocks everywhere but they are well marked and it was low tide so most of them could be seen poking above the water. I anchored in the middle of the inner bay on a sandy bottom in 2.3m of water.
What a good afternoon on the water.
Launched the drone but it complained about the wind so I couldn’t get a shot of the harbour and EIVIVA. She is anchored about 200m from here.
29th May 2024: 51 42.2061N 8 30.669W: Kinsale, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 387.3nm.
I helped Colm set off in Goldeneye at 0600, although he didn’t need my help as he had it all sorted. It’s been a windy day today so he will have had fun punching into it.
I then sorted out some work and touched base with Geku. As I was on a pontoon with shore power I used the opportunity to hoover the boat and use hot water to clean down the heads. Then off to the shops for some last-minute supplies. I filled up the water tank and took the boat over to the other marina for fuel. Two euro a litre for marine diesel in Ireland and EIVIVA swallowed 150 litres of the stuff. I then went back out into the estuary and back on anchor. A quick trip back to the shops to a get camping gas refill, two years ago a refill cost me 46 euro today 60. I think that is the record. 14 euros in the Azores was the least I have paid.
So, clean bottom, full water tank, full fuel tank, loads of gas and enough food for a couple of days. All set to go west into the remote bays of SW Ireland. First stop Glandore.
My Irish flag arrived. It is made out of very heavy fabric and large enough to bang on the mast. When the wind picks up it makes quite a clank and it will keep me awake. I might have to reduce the size of the flag, after all why have a sewing machine onboard if you never use it?
I noticed a load of smoke coming from near the harbour master’s office. This turned out to be a collection of traction engines adding a respectable amount of CO2 into the atmosphere. Good opportunity for a couple of photos as I am running out of things to photograph in Kinsale.
Wonderful machines, all powered by coal and water. Hot and smoky.
28th May 2024: 51 42.2061N 8 30.669W: Kinsale, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 387.3nm.
I was woken up this morning by Carol who decided to phone me at 07:45hrs. Its not that she woke up at 07:45, she phoned me at 09:45 from Greece. As she pointed out it was late for me. I worked for the first half of the day then moved EIVIVA to the pontoon to top up the water tank and let Max scrub the hull out of the main tidal flow. The harbour men caught the ropes, which was just as well as the wind was blowing me off the pontoon and it would have been a challenge on my own. Euro 60 for the night. Expensive water, but worth it for a clean bottom.
Colm in the next boat a Contessa 32 called Goldeneye, based out of Dingle, spent an hour with me going through all the places that I should visit. His choices matched the information I gleaned last night, and added a few places. There are now 21 anchorages that I have to visit along 120nm of coast from here to Dingle. This is great news as I can do short hops, work and explore.
Kinsale marina looking towards the town, EIVIVA with the tender alongside.
27th May 2024: 51 42.2061N 8 30.669W: Kinsale, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 387.3nm.
Woke up thinking that I shouldn’t have had that last pint of Murphy’s. But a convivial Irish bar and normal people made saying no problematic. A couple of mugs of ships coffee had me cracking on in search of food and a backpack. The zip on my trusty Jeep backpack that I have had for years was salt encrusted and refused to open. Soapy water and WD40 didn’t work then pliers broke the zip. Food I got at the fantastic Smiths Supermarket, really great selection of food at good prices. The backpack however eluded me.
I met Max who will scrub the bottom of the boat for €100. I could do it my self but the thought of getting in the cold water for a couple of hours makes the cost a no brainier. The tide is too strong where I am anchored so I will move to the pontoon hammer head tomorrow so that Max isn’t swept away. I will also fill up with water whilst I am there.
I got the sewing machine out to mend the Irish courtesy flag that had suffered in the wind two years ago. After faffing around for half an hour I decided that it was too far gone so I ordered one on Amazon to be delivered to the yacht club on Wednesday. In the yacht club I got chatting to a chap who gave me a list of the anchorages I should visit between here and Dingle. It sounds fantastic.
26th May 2024: 51 42.2061N 8 30.669W: Kinsale, Ireland.
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 387.3nm.
Had a good night’s sleep. Out cold, woke up at 0800hrs, had coffee, and bacon and eggs, then started to think about work. The weather was horrible with strong winds and rain. At around 1500hrs the rain stopped so I went over to the Kinsale Yacht Club to check that I was OK at anchor. On the way back I picked up a carboard box from their recycling bin to use to make cupboard dividers to stop mugs and glasses flying around in the cupboard in heavy weather. I always remember Dad making cupboard dividers for his camper vans and remember thinking that there were better things to do in life. But I guess he didn’t like his mugs flying around either. This project kept me amused for some hours until the Dock Bar started to serve Murphy’s. I treated myself to a few very moreish pints.
Now home safely with leftover curry for tea.
Lovely weather here.
24th &25th May 2024: 51 42.2061N 8 30.669W: Kinsale, Ireland.
Day Log: 135.0nm. Total Log: 387.3nm.
Today I rigged the whisker pole so that it doesn’t hit the shrouds and bugger up the anodising (like I did last year, live and learn). I was going to stay here until early next week but the weather is conspiring against me and it looks like today is the day to go north. There has been zero wind all day and this will continue through the night until around one o’clock in the morning when I expect a building SE wind. By 1700hrs Saturday it is predicted 24kts gusting 30kts, by then I will hopefully be close to Kinsale. I will keep the Starlink running to see what service I get on the way. So with luck I can do real time updates.
Its now 1800hrs and we are leaving St Martin’s.
Starlink stops working about 25miles offshore. You then have to go onto the ocean subscription which is another £160 for the month you use it. Good for going across the Atlantic but not for a day sail.
As predicted the wind was light so we motor sailed through the night in 7kts of wind from the SW, dodging fishing boats that had AIS and a couple of sailing boats that didn’t. It amazes me that people go sailing offshore through shipping lanes without AIS, why would you do it?
A white bellied barn swallow stopped off for the ride to Ireland. Amazingly tame, totally unphased by me it would come and sit on my knee for a chat. I noticed that the birds in the Scilly Isles would hop up onto a crowded table, sparrows obviously but also blackbirds and thrushes. It left with a chirp at dawn with 50nm downwind to go.
At about 0400hrs Saturday the wind had backed as expected and was blowing 12kts from the SSE. Engine off and soon we were rolling downwind in 16kts over a building sea. I used the same sail plan that I found reduced the boat roll on the way to the Azores last year. Half main restrained down wind, full yankee poled out wing on wing and the stay sail pinned flat in the gap between mast and yankee. Auto pilot working to wind angle at about 175 degrees. EIVIVA looks after herself, slightly scary at first but after an hour I just let her get on with it. By 1100hrs we were being chased by a force six gusting seven with quite spectacular seas that were overtaking the boat making for some interesting downhill speed. In a lighter boat this would have been much more challenging as there would have been the risk of losing grip and rounding up into wind requiring constant steering. EIVIVA felt like she was on rails.
As you would expect the full on 30kts arrived ten miles from Kinsale, accompanied by torrential rain. As the sea became shallower the wave tops were starting to break and it all became quite exciting for an hour or so. There was no way that I was going to sail into Kinsale doing 9kts, even though the estuary is quite big, as a result I had a messy time furling everything in big seas. Just as well I did it as there was a cruise liner leaving as I entered, there wasn’t much room.
The last four hours of the sail were probably the heaviest weather I have encountered in EIVIVA. On the edge of my experience, the strain on the boat must be huge. I came away feeling confident she could take a lot more, I only had a reef in the main, reducing the yankee as well would have given her another gear. I have the feeling that the human would give out before the boat. In Kinsale by 1400hrs. Dragged the anchor first attempt, looks like we are stuck now though.
Well, I knew it was going to be a tough one.
It is 18:00hrs and the wind is ripping over the anchorage gusting 30kts. I am very glad to be sitting inside with the heater on and a butter chicken warming on the stove for dinner. I am going to sleep well tonight.
This lot is moving north eastwards, I got the orange and a bit of red by the time I reached Kinsale.
21:30hrs. Orange sky at night, going to be windy.
My mate.
04:30hrs. Orange sky in the morning, going to be windy and rainy.
23rd May 2024: 49 57.801N 6 18.354W: St Martin’s, Isles of Scilly
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 252.3nm.
I think we won the first WKA job today. I won’t celebrate properly until the cash hits the bank but our client says he is going to pay…..
I decided to celebrate by going for a run around the north side of St Martin’s then have a quick shower and visit the local pub for a few beers. The wind has picked up and is gusting 20kts, the anchorage is open to the north but so far the wind has a little west in it and what pop there is was on the bow so not rolling around much. The wind had caused a two foot swell that was breaking on the beach so getting the tender ashore without over topping my boots was a nimble operation. The sand was very coarse and the tender’s wheels sank into it making the struggle of pulling the tender up the beach harder work than the run. Didn’t stop me going back for a beer later though.
I had my first beer in the Karma Hotel. On the wall were photos of Kate and Wills having a good time here, so I am in good company. I then moved up the hill to the local Seven Stones Inn. Wow, very island local and packed with all the people that knew where to go. Finished four pints as I haven’t had any booze since Falmouth, and it was a celebration!
Getting back to EIVIVA was accomplished with much panache, without getting my feet or falling foul of over indulgence. What could possibly have gone wrong. Left over shepherds pie for tea.
Perfect.
I’m sure they were in awe of the God like entity that overshadowed the occasion
Now I look at the photo there was not so much panache required getting back after all. Just felt like it at the time. EIVIVA swinging in the distance.
22nd May 2024: 49 57.801N 6 18.354W: St Martin’s, Isles of Scilly
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 252.3nm.
Well I said that I would do one of these each day no matter what….. Today I jumped out of bed early then worked all day only stopping to make a shepherds pie and bung it in the oven. Its almost nine o’clock and I poked my head out of the hatch for the first time and was greeted by a half decent sunset. I will go for a run tomorrow to break work up a bit.
Now waiting for any wind that isn’t northerly so that we can head for the Emerald Isles.
21st May 2024: 49 57.801N 6 18.354W: St Martin’s, Isles of Scilly
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 252.3nm.
Lovely Island St Martin’s. I spent the first half of the day working again then took the tender to the nearest beach and went for a stroll through Lower Town, then Middle Town and finally Upper Town. Each comprising a scattering of buildings surrounded by lush springtime gardens and hedgerows. The Upper Town post office and general store was not connected to the internet so I had to pay for my magnum ice cream by paying BACS. The store lady let me eat it first, I guess I would have taken the cash up the hill later if BACS failed.
My scenic route then took me along the coast path that finally petered out. I have learned many times that one should never trust a path that starts to lose definition. The temptation is always strong to continue and not go back but without fail there is always a good reason. Probably a lesson in life here, but I continued. This time the only way around the headland was across a boulder field that would be awash a high tide. Still an hour to go, what could possibly go wrong.
On the way back to the boat I stopped in at the Karma St Martin’s, a small spa hotel, and treated myself to a cream tea, not a bad place for a relaxing holiday away from it all. I had dragged the tender up the beach when I arrived and it was just afloat on my return, perfect timing. I had deployed the anchor up the beach just in case my timing didn’t work, due to a boulder field and tide…..Then back to the boat and more work. Followed by left over chicken and sweat potato madras, then early to bed.
It took three attempts to get to the rock in 10 seconds…..
20th May 2024: 49 57.801N 6 18.354W: St Martin’s, Isles of Scilly
Day Log: 2.6nm. Total Log: 252.3nm.
I woke up to the sound of a ship fog horn not so far away. Grabbed my iPhone and looked at the AIS that showed a small cruise liner arriving into Saint Mary’s Road. I stuck my head out of the companion way but apart from another sailing boat that was at anchor about 50m away the fog was thick all around. Blue sky overhead that heralded a good day. With some relief I heard the cruise ship anchor drop some distance off.
The morning was taken up with work calls. After lunch I went shopping to the CoOp in Hugh Town. The classic 1924 Scillonian Ferry came in during the morning bringing supplies to the shops as it has done for more than 40 years. I mention this as the CoOp had some food on the shelves, I have visited before when there was very little.
I planned a run around the north end of St Mary’s Island as it looked intriguing when I passed yesterday. On the OS map I noticed that there was a Neolithic chambered tomb about 3 km away along the coast path at Innisidgen. Apparently there are 80 prehistoric tombs on the islands, my brother John would be all over them.
At high tide I moved 2.5nm to an anchorage that I have not been to before between St. Martin’s Island and Tean Island. Very peaceful here and more sheltered from the westerly winds that arrive tomorrow.
EIVIVA at anchor off Hugh Town from the coastal path.
Taking photos is always a good excuse to stop running…..
Almost popped in here for a rest. Neolithic or early bronze age.
19th May 2024: 49 55.307N 6 18.914W: Hugh Town, Isles of Scilly
Day Log: 57.9nm. Total Log: 249.7nm.
My alarm was set for 0600 to take advantage of the last half of the tide that would sweep us past Manacle point, on towards Black Head then around the most southerly point of the British Isles, The Lizard. Notorious for its heavy overfalls, jagged outlying rocks and numerous shipwrecks.
The day dawned with no wind and so we gently motored around this beautiful coast towards the Isles of Scilly. In the end there was sufficient wind to switch of the engine and sail slowly along on a flat sunny sea. At one point an empty full size oil drum floated past, it would have made a nice mess of the gelcoat had it hit the hull.
We passed close to Wolf Rock that sticks out of the sea in 65m of open water 7nm SW of Lands End. The lighthouse was first constructed in 1869 after a series of marks were washed away in storms. It is said that fissures in the rock make it howl in strong winds, I don’t want to ever hear it howl. To the east of the rock the wrecks of ships that did are scattered over seabed.
We arrived at the Isles of Scilly at around 1600hrs. As the tide was high and the sea slight, I decided to weave around the north side of St Mary’s dodging the rocks and sandbars that litter the passages between the islands. I dropped the anchor just outside Hugh Town harbour in 6m of water just as fog blew in from the north and everything surrounding us vanished from sight. I will leave the AIS running tonight.
Dawn over the Helford Estuary
Wolf Rock, on a nice day.
View of Hugh Town in the fog.
18th May 2024: 50 05.983N 5 06.955W: Helford Estuary
Day Log: 6.8nm. Total Log: 191.8nm.
Lazy day today. Pottered around on the boat tidying up and fixing things in the sun.
A light wind was blowing from the north so around lunchtime I unfurled the Yankee and sailed slowly out of the River Fal and on to the Helford River estuary. It is only six miles away and we were roaring along at 3.5kts. But I was in no hurry, lovely day.
I went ashore at the Sailing Club to test out my fix on the drone. One of the motors was sticking and when I tried to launch it recently it flew sideways, luckily into my legs not overboard. In the carpark it worked as it usually does, it might still be interesting the first time I launch it off the boat.
Early to bed, going to the Scilly Isles tomorrow.
Helford River Sailing Club, very friendly
Nice Place to live
17th May 2024: 50 10.625N 5 01.403W: St Just Pool, Falmouth
Day Log: 0.00nm. Total Log: 185nm.
Lucy said to me a couple of days ago, you will wakeup in the morning soon and say to yourself, this is what I remember feeling like! Jumped out of bed this morning feeling great! Coffee on the poop deck surrounded by the sun silvered sea, seabirds serenading on shore and the slap of the tender gently pulling on its painter. Feeling great.
Worked in the morning then went shopping to St Mawes for provisions. Shopping required a 5 mile round trip in the tender. At 15kts on a flat sea it only takes 10 minutes each way if you are feeling great!
Did some rigging then went for a 6k run late afternoon, to St Mawes fort and back. Not so fit, had a hard time not stopping on the way back. Every time I was about to stop someone would walk into sight and I had to keep going. In here there is probably a lesson in life that I should address. Before it addresses me. But every time I look at it someone walks around the corner into sight.
Almost in focus, it was bouncy.
A little rest to take a photo on the way back. EIVIVA on left
16th May 2024: 50 10.625N 5 01.403W: St Just Pool, Falmouth
Day Log: 0.00nm. Total Log: 185nm.
Still waking up in the morning feeling under par. Today I worked for most of the day then at around four o’clock I decided to visit the church at St Just in Roseland as I was moored in the same bay. A tender ride and a short walk to a very poetic church surrounded by a hillside graveyard that was chaotic and overgrown in such a way that it was impossible to take a bad photograph. Like something out of a Victorian novel. Even the wild hedge rows surrounding the church were beautiful. So not more writing let the pictures do the talking. Definitely worth visit on a sunny day if you are ever passing.
I noticed that the pictures were not formatted correctly when viewed on a phone. Now they are and you will understand the something fishy comment……
15th May 2024: 50 10.625N 5 01.403W: St Just Pool, Falmouth
Day Log: 65.5nm. Total Log: 185nm.
On reflection I’m not sure that I should have gone out this morning.
At 0700 my internal clock woke me up and before I could think about it I had the anchor stowed and we were driving out of Dartmouth into a cold, lumpy grey English Channel. The wind of the last few days had built the sea into a 2.5m swell that was not concerning EIVIVA who rode it in her usual smooth manner. Once around start point we had 17-22kts of wind at 120 degrees off the port beam. Perfect trade wind sailing and EIVIVA shot off at 9 kts SOG with slight tide against. A nice pod of baby dolphins flew around the boat for half an hour, but they were going so fast that a decent photo eluded me. Perfect sailing.
I decided to aim for Falmouth 65nm away. By the time we passed the Eddystone lighthouse the wind had gone around to the east so it was almost down wind. Too strong to fly the spinnaker solo so we rolled west for the next four hours under full main and yankee. I wasn’t feeling my normal bullet proof self, probably due to the bug I was recovering from, I arrived in Falmouth very glad to get off the rollercoaster.
The anchorage at St Mawes was roly-poly so I moved up the Fal River to St Just Pool in Carrick Roads that was better.
Lovely sail apart from the Tom and Dick feeling. I now sympathise with Lucy and the Stornoway to Faroes epic trip as it was three times longer and three times more wavy.
Sunset over Carrick Roads
14th May 2024: 50 21.106N 3 34.449W: Dartmouth
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 119.5nm.
Still in Dartmouth. I woke up feeling slightly better, the backs of my eyes still ached and my skin was still pins and needles, but not as bad as it was. I spent most of the morning thinking about doing something then at at three o’clock I finally managed to get going.
The tender was full of rain water, had it rained over the last few days? I guess so. I must read my blog to see what I have missed. The baby cruise liner arrived in the morning, not at 0700hrs as the harbour people said but at 0930hrs, plenty of time for me to move the boat this morning. But running around in the rain with flu was much more fun.
I strolled around Dartmouth for a while, I like this town.
I decided to get some new sailing gloves as the pair I have onboard are mostly holes. The chandler only sold one type and my hands would only fit into the XXL version, unfortunately the fingerless fingers were so long that my fingers did not poke out of the ends. I spent the rest of the day looking at hands to see whether ridiculously long thin hands were a Dartmouth inbreeding thing.
Tomorrow I am going to head out at 0600hs into whatever sea the winds of the past days have picked up. I will see how I feel but there are many places I can drop into if I am not having a good time of it.
La Champlain, mini cruise liner. Hull built in Rumania then ship finished in Norway. Launched 2018. 140 guests.
Something fishy going on around here.
This building is fabulous. I have no idea how it stands up, it is so wobbly. The no right turn sign has been expertly placed to enhance the photo opportunity. It houses the Dartmouth museum and was a merchants house built in 17th century. Next year I will go inside and have a gander.
13th May 2024: 50 21.106N 3 34.449W: Dartmouth
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 119.5nm.
Flu symptoms still raging through my body.
I had a catchup call with Geku about his trip to Cyprus and Istanbul. It all sounds very promising. Then went back to sleep. Then a client meeting at 1600hrs.
In the evening the harbour master knocked on the side of the boat and said I had to move as there is a cruise liner arriving tomorrow and I might be a little close. He also said that there is a good chance that my anchor was under one of the mooring chains that hold the big ship buoys in place! As it was pissing it down I suggested that I could move in the morning but to no avail as the ship arrives early. Flu or not I donned my waterproofs and weighed the anchor. It stopped coming up when the chain was vertical. I gave it a bit but it still wouldn’t budge! I gave it a little more and to my relief it came up accompanied by a huge lump of prime Dartmouth mud. Phew!
As I engined to my new anchoring place I noticed a piece of rope hanging over the side of the boat. The string that holds the anchor ball in place had snapped in the high wind leaving the spinnaker halyard, that I use to hoist it, half way up the mast. An unwelcome problem that required sorting out. By attaching boat hooks together I could just reach the shackle. Then after fifteen minutes of standing in the rain playing what felt like a stupid party game I managed to get the point of the boat hook through the eye of the swinging shackle. There is something in the Bible about this.
No photos today as it was a rubbish day. Someone once told me that without the rubbish days the good ones are just not good enough. I look forward with anticipation.
12th May 2024: 50 21.106N 3 34.449W: Dartmouth
Day Log: 0.0nm. Total Log: 119.5nm.
Half past three in the morning (I can’t get no sleep!). I woke up with full on flu symptoms. Back of my eyes aching, tingling skin, bunged up nose and aching joints. Yesterday I didn’t feel totally right but I put it down to getting my sea legs under me. I crawled out of bed at 0900 and went shopping for anti-bug remedies and food. I had a shopping list that I had been making over the last few days but my brain couldn’t work out the correlation between what was in my shopping bag and what was on the list.
Once back on the boat I curled up on the sofa and slept for most of the day. At 1800 another quick trip to the Co-Op for spiced rum and coke, ice and lemons, which I am now consuming. I would rather blame my symptoms on a hangover than the weakness of illness!
Weather tomorrow is horrendous. I will stay in Dartmouth and work with Geku for the day sorting out some of the opportunities that came from his trip to Cyprus. Flu / hangover permitting.
“Yeah, I only smoke weed when I need to
And I need to get some rest---yo, where's the cess?
I confess, I burned a hole in the mattress
Yes, yes, it was me, I plead guilty
And at the count of three I pull back the duvet
Make my way to the refrigerator
One dry potato inside, no lie, not even bread
Jam, when the light above my head went bam!
I can't see, something's all over me, greasy
Insomnia please release me and let me dream
About making mad love on the heath
Tearing off tights with my teeth
But there's no relief, I'm wide awake in my kitchen
It's black and I'm lonely
Oh, if I could only get some sleep
Creeky noises make my skin creep
I need to get some sleep
I can't get no sleep
I need to get some sleep
I can't get no sleep”
RIP Maxi Jazz
I blame the rum…….
11th May 2024: 50 21.106N 3 34.449W: Dartmouth
Day Log: 51.6nm. Total Log: 119.5nm.
I didn’t sleep that well last night. I forgot to put on the anchor snubber and the chain clonked every now and then keeping me awake. I should have jumped out of bed and done something about it, but the thought rummaging around in the anchor locker in the dark wearing just my pants didn’t appeal. There might have been a dolphin looking.
I spent the first half of the morning sorting out the spinnaker gear with the new launch bag, hopefully I haven’t crossed any ropes.
The tide set westwards from about 1400hrs and was slack at Portland Bill about the same time. It is 6nm from Portland Harbour to the tip of Portland Bill so I gave myself an hour to get there. Once I cleared the harbour walls the wind was blowing 16kts from the east, perfect! As a result I arrived early but the Portland race looked calm so I took the inshore passage. I always feel that I can shake hands with the people onshore going this route. Once we cleared the bouncy sea off the Bill I launched the spinnaker…..and the wind dropped to maximum 6kts for the rest of the day. I dawdled towards Dartmouth at 4kts SOG and some of that was tide. After four hours I gave up and put on the engine. Again.
We arrived in Dartmouth at 19:57, a good number. There was a convenient spot to anchor where someone had just vacated, or so said the man in the boat behind me. I like Dartmouth the approach from the sea past craggy rocks and through the narrow castle guarded entrance is always evocative of by gone days. As the river entrance widens it is surrounded by the town that steps steeply up the riverbank with an old-world charm. From the waterside there are very few town planning monstrosities to be seen and even those blend in reasonably well. I could live here, and indeed I will for the next few days.
HMS St Albans, launched in 2000 refitted twice since then and is now the most advanced frigate in the Royal Navy line up.
Above. East Blackstone nearest and the Mew Stone on the approach to Dartmouth. Below. Dartmouth entrance
10th May 2024: 50 35.290N 2 27.561W: Portland Harbour
Day Log: 67.9nm. Total Log: 67.9nm.
Up to the cry of the little egrets that were wading on the low tide mud looking for breakfast. Weather forecast for today was 9kts from the east, perfect for a spinnaker run in the sun down the south coast. You will observe from the photographs that the promised wind was not happening when we (EIVIVA and me) set out against the tide at 07:30. We went under engine around the south side of the Isle of Wight, at times against 3kts of tide whistling for the wind. No luck, there was a ten minute gust of 6kts that felt like it might build, but in the end the iron donkey chugged away all day. No rush and once the tide changed at 13:00hrs I kept the revs low and we arrived into Portland Harbour at about 17:30. The only down side to motoring with the wind behind is the exhaust fumes that tend to eddy around the stern and creep into the cockpit.
I mounted the Starlink dishy with cable ties onto the arch and was pleased to see 140Mbps download and about 50Mbps upload when we were were 8 nm off shore. I spent the day looking at North Cyprus on the web where we have the chance of a project in Kyrenia. Geku was there this week, I should have gone it looks fabulous.
Last year doing this (B)log with a 4G signal was a pain in the backside, this is so much better.
Just before sunset as I was sitting down to watch a bit of telly I heard what sounded like a rowing boat going past with someone rowing who was doing a really noisy job of it. Puzzled I stuck my head out of the companion way to be greeted by a large dolphin who then spent the next 5 minutes jumping out of the water, wagging its tail and doing its best to flip in such a way that I was given a good shower. It even said a few things in dolphin language to me. I wasn’t sure whether it was in trouble or just having fun with a human. Once it had gone away I Googled dolphins in Portland Harbour and apparently it is a lone wild dolphin who enjoys showing off and doing tricks for people in boats. Cool encounter.
This is a photo taken by someone else of the same chap.
Above. South of the Isle of Wight looking towards St Catherine’s point. Below. Heavy weather!
Well here we go again………
EIVIVA back in the water on 9th April. David and I sailed her down to Bosham to her beautiful home on swinging mooring BM6. I feel very lucky to have the mooring at Bosham, it is located at the junction of the Chichester Channel and the Bosham Channel with a view across Chichester harbour toward the beach at West Whittering and on to the Isle of Wight. Most of Chichester Harbour is owned by the Crown Estates but a Lordship of the Manor of Bosham was granted in 1053 and has been in private ownership ever since. King Harold is depicted in the Bayeux Tapestry riding with his knights to Bosham Manor where he said his prayers before he set sail to France and was killed at the Battle of Hastings in 1066. Some say that Hing Harold is buried in the church at Bosham Quay but permission had never been granted to dig up the floor.
Words from Redding Museum “Harold and a companion enter the church at Bosham, to pray for a safe voyage. The night before they leave, a feast is held in one of Harold's many houses; in this case, his manor house at Bosham. Finally, Harold boards his ship and sets sail. You can see that he is still carrying his hawk.” .
The king has his hawk and his dog but must have mislaid his trousers at the feast.